doup loom

The loom mechanism is entirely different from that used for leno brocade work in which the ordinary doup is used and all the warp is drawn through the mail eyes of the jacquard. For Madras muslins the jacquard is different as doup harness and slackener harness must be provided. Qualities vary from 36 to 50 ends and 27 to 36 picks per inch, of 60's to 80's warp and 40's to 80's weft. The coloured warp yarns are 50's, 2/70's or 2/100's. The figuring weft ranges from 8's to 16's, 2/16's to 2/32's and rayon weft from 500 denier to 150 denier. The cloth is an open gauze ground cloth and extra weft figures are woven on this base. The extra weft appears only where figure is required and the floating yarn between one figure and the next is cut off after weaving.

The loom mechanism is entirely different from that used for leno brocade work in which the ordinary doup is used and all the warp is drawn through the mail eyes of the jacquard. For Madras muslins the jacquard is different as doup harness and slackener harness must be provided. Qualities vary from 36 to 50 ends and 27 to 36 picks per inch, of 60's to 80's warp and 40's to 80's weft. The coloured warp yarns are 50's, 2/70's or 2/100's. The figuring weft ranges from 8's to 16's, 2/16's to 2/32's and rayon weft from 500 denier to 150 denier. The cloth is an open gauze ground cloth and extra weft figures are woven on this base. The extra weft appears only where figure is required and the floating yarn between one figure and the next is cut off after weaving.

A movable bar on a loom over which yarn passes during weaving, the bar being caused to move inwards, e.g., towards the healds, in order to slacken the warp threads passing over it. When used as a slackener or easer for doup yarns in leno and gauze weaving there must be sufficient movement to allow the doup threads to cross to the other side of the standard threads. Vibrating backrests are used extensively in plain weaving to maintain a uniform tension on the warp threads.